London Neighborhoods Review

London is a conglomeration of areas, and each has its very own life, restaurants, hotels, gastro-pubs, pubs etc,. If this is your first time visiting, you may be intimidated until you get to know how it all works.

Most visitors spend all their time in the West End where most of the attractions and activities are located, except of course, for the historic part of the London neighborhood known as the City. The Tower of London, however, is situated in East London.

I hope my website will help you get your bearings. I'll try and provide a brief overview of the city's most important London neighborhoods and answer a few questions you might need to know. For example; getting around the London neighborhoods by bus, underground, train, taxi and especially walking.

There is fortunately a big difference between the sprawling vastness of Greater London and the really small size north of the River Thames which is usually the place that attracts most visitors. These interesting London neighborhoods begin at Chelsea, on the north side of the river, and stretches about five miles north to Camden and Hampstead Heath including Islington.

Its western boundary runs through Kensington, while East London's neighborhoods lie just five miles east at Tower Bridge. Within this five mile square, you'll find all the hotels and restaurants and nearly all the sights that are usually of interest to visitors.

Now don't forget, this London neighborhood is quite a large piece of land to cover, and to really explore this part of the London neighborhood properly would most likely take you a few years to cover and enjoy. This part of the city has the advantage of being flat and quite walkable, besides boasting one of the best public transportation systems in the world.

LONDON NEIGHBORHOODS

Belgravia:

South of Knightsbridge; this has long been the aristocratic London neighborhood and rivals Mayfair in grandness and richness. Although it reached the pinnacle of its prestige during the reign of Queen Victoria, it is still a chic address. The Duke and Duchess of Westminster, one of England's richest families, still live in this London neighborhood in Eaton Square. Not in a palace however, but in an upper-story apartment, and believe it or not, they own more real estate in this London neighborhood than the Queen.

Once an area for fights and "duels at dawn" and of course sheep grazing, the London neighborhood of Belgravia eventually marked the westward expansion of London. Its centerpiece is Balgrave Square, built between 1825 - 1835. When the town houses were built, the aristocrats followed the Duke of Connaught, the Earl of Essex, even Queen Victoria's mother, the Duchess of Kent. Even Chopin was impressed with this London neighborhood when on holiday here in 1837. Everything is extraordinary in Belgravia, the people, the houses, the palaces, the pomp, and the carriages.

Bloomsbury:

This London neighborhood, a world within itself, lies northeast of Piccadilly Circus, beyond Soho. It is, among other things, the academic heart of London. Here you'll find the University of London and several other colleges, and many bookstores. Despite its student overtones, the area is fairly staid.

Bloomsburys reputation has been famed by such writers as Virginia Woolf, who lived within its bounds (it figured in her novel Jacob's Room). The novelist and her husband, Leonard, were once the unofficial leaders of a group of artists and writers known as "the Bloombsbury Group"---nicknamed "Bloomsberries" - which also included Bertrand Russell.

The heart of Bloomsbury is Russell Square. The streets jutting off from the square are lined with hotels and B&Bs, which incidentally, is a great place to stay, being so close to Russell Square "Underground Station". Russell Square was laid out between 1800 and 1814, and Thackeray in his novel Vanity Fair made it the stamping ground of the Osbornes and the Sedleys.

Most visitors, even though not living in a hotel in Bloomsbury, enter this London neighborhood to see the British Museum, one of the world's greatest collection of treasures. Everything from the Rosetta Stone to the Elgin Marbles.

Chelsea:

The stylish London neighborhood of Chelsea stretches along the Thames south of Belgravia. It begins at Sloane Square, with Gilbert Ledward's Venus fountain playing water music
if the noise of the traffic doesn't drown it out. Flower sellers hustle their flamboyant blooms here year-round.

The area has always been a favorite of writers and artists, including such names as Oscar Wilde (who was arrested here), George Eliot, James Whistler, J.M.W. Turner, Henry James, Augustus John, and Thomas Carlyle (whose former home can be visited). Mick Jagger and Margaret Thatcher among others have been more recent residents, and Princess Diana in the '80s gave it even more fame.

Its major street is King's Road where Mary Quant launched the miniskirt in the l960s and the Rolling Stones once lived. It is also where the English punk look began. King's Road runs the entire length of Chelsea, and the best time to visit is on a Saturday when this London neighborhood is at its liveliest. Originally this was the royal carriage route Charles II took to Hampton Court. The hip-hop of King's Road is not typical of upmarket Chelsea. The area is filled with town houses and little mews dwellings that only the rich and famous and very successful London professionals such as stockbrokers and solicitors can afford. The real estate prices in this London neighborhood are out of this world to say the least.

The City:

When the English speak of "The City" they are making reference to the postal codes: (EC2, EC3), they don't really mean London itself. The City is the British version of Wall Street in New York City. The buildings in this London neighborhood are known all over the world i.e. The Bank of England on Threadneedle Street, the London Stock Exchange, and of course Lloyd's of London.

This was the origin of Londinium in A.D. 43, so called by the Roman conquerors. Landmarks include St. Paul's Cathedral, the masterpiece of Sir Christopher Wren, which withstood the London Blitz. Some 2,000 years of history unfold at the Museum of London and the Barbican Centre, opened by Queen Elizabeth in 1982, and hailed by her as a "wonder" of the cultural world.

At the Guildhall, the first Lord Mayor of London was installed in 1192. Lady Jane Grey, wife of Henry VIII, was tried here for "treason".

Covent Garden:

The flower, fruit and veg market is long gone since 1970, but memories of Professor Higgins and his squashed cabbage leaf, Eliza Doolittle, linger on. Even without the market, Covent Garden is still associated with food, as it contains the liveliest group of London restaurants, pubs and cafes outside of Soho.

The tradition of food dates from the time when monks of Westminster Abbey dumped their surplus homegrown vegetables here. Charles II in 1670 granted the Earle of Bedford the right to sell roots and herbs, whatsoever in the district.

The Kings mistress, Nell Gwynne, once peddled oranges on Dury Lane. The restored marketplace with its glass and iron roofs has been called a magnificent example of urban recycling. It's not all about food.

Inigo Jones built St Paul's Covent Garden between 1631 and 1633. Jone's handsomest barn in Europe was rebuilt after a fire in 1795 and is still attended by actora and artists, attracting over the years everybody from Ellen Terry to Vivien Leigh.

The Theatre Royal Dury Lane was where Nell Gwynne made her debut in 1665, and the Irish actress, Dorothea Jordan, first caught the eye of the Duke of Carence, later William IV. She not only became his mistress, but the mother of 10 of his children.

The East End:

Traditionally this was one of London's poorest districts, and was nearly bombed out of existence by the Nazis. Hitler, in the words of one commentator at the time, created "instant urban renewal". It is the home of the cockney, surely one of London's most colorful characters.

To be a true cockney, it is said you must have been born "within the sound of Bow Bells," a reference to a church, St. Mary-le-Bow, rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren in 1670. Many immigrants to London have found a home here.

The East End extends from the City Walls east encompassing Stepney, Bow, Poplar, West Ham, Canning Town, Islington and other districts. The East End has always been filled with legend and lore. The area beyond the East End, the docklands, has been called "an emerging third city of London," filled with offices, Thames-side "flats", museums, entertainment complexes, and sports centers, certainly shopping malls, and an ever-growing list of restaurants.

Holborn:

The old borough of Holborn takes in the heart of legal London--home of the city's barristers, solicitors, and law clerks. Still Dickensian in spirit, the area lets you follow in the Victorian author's footsteps, passing the two Inns of Court and arriving at Bleeding Heart Yard of Little Dorritt fame.

A 14-year-old Dickens was once employed as a solicitor's clerk at Lincoln's Inn Fields. Old Bailey has stood for English justice down through the years (Fagin went to the gallows from this site in Oliver Twist). Everything here seems steeped in history.

Even as you're quenching your thirst with a half pint of bitter at the Viaduct Tavern, 126 Newgate St. (tube: St. Paul's), you learn the pub was built over the notorious Newgate Prison (which specialized in death by pressing) and was named after the Holborn Viaduct, the world's first overpass.

Kensington:

The Royal Borough (W8) lies west of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park and this area is traversed by two of London's major shopping streets, Kensington High Street and Kensington Church Street. Since 1689 when asthmatic William III fled Whitehall Palace for Nottingham House, where the air was much fresher, so this London neighborhood has been host to quite a few royals.

Nottingham House in time became Kensington Palace, and the royals grabbed a chunk of Hyde Park to plant their roses. Queen Victoria was born here. "KP", as the royals say, Princess Margaret lived here, Prince and Princess Michael of Kent, and the duke and duchess of Gloucester lived here.

Kesington Palace is where Diana Princess of Wales lived with her two boys, William and Harry. I understand, the queen allowed these royals to live in the palace for free, but did ask them to cover the cost of the phone, electricity and heating bills.

Kensington Gardens

Kensington Gardens is now open to the public ever since George II decreed that "respectably dressed" people would be permitted in only on Saturday, providing that no servants, soldiers, or sailors came of course. In the footsteps of William III, Kensington Square developed, attracting artists and writers.

In time, a maid decided to use Thomas Caryle's manuscript of The French Revolution to light a fire, and he had to write it again. Thackeray lived here from 1846 to 1853 and during that time wrote Vanity Fair. Over the years Kensington High Street became a mecca for rich shoppers.

Knightsbridge:

The most fashionable London neighborhood is Knightsbridge and is a top residential and shopping area, just south of Hyde Park. Harrods on Brompton Road is its chief attraction. Founded in 1901, it's been called "the Notre Dame of department stores"- it sells everything from Rayne pumps worn by the queen to a Baccharat crystal table valued at one million pounds.

There's a department that will even arrange your burial. Right nearby Beauchamp Place (pronounced Beech-am) is one of London's most fashionable shopping streets, a Regency-era boutique-lined little street with a scattering of restaurants such as San Lorenzo, which was visited by Princess Diana.

Shops include Bruce Oldfield at 27 Beauchamp Place, where Princess Diana and even Joan Collins show up to purchase their evening dresses. And, at the end of a shopping day, if Harrods's five restaurants and five bars haven't tempted you, retreat to Bill Bentley's at 31 Beauchamp Place for a dozen oysters washed down with a few glasses of muscadet.

Mayfair:

Bounded by Piccadilly, Hyde Park, and Oxford and Regent streets, this section
of London is considered the most elegant, fashionable section of London. Luxury hotels exist side by side with Georgian town houses and swank shops.

Grosvenor Square (pronounced Grov-nor) is nicknamed "Little America", because it contains the American embassy and a statue of Franklin D. Roosevelt. Berkeley (pronounced Bark-ley) is the home of the English Speaking Union.

At least once you'll want to dip into this exclusive section, or perhaps visit Carnaby Street, a block from Regent Street, if you want to remember this London neighborhood from the swinging sixties.

One of the curiosities of Mayfair is Shepherd Market, a tiny village of pubs, two-story inns, book and food stalls, and restaurants--all sandwiched between Mayfair's greatness.

Paddington/Bayswater:

The London neighborhood of the Paddington area centers around Paddington Station, north of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. It's one of the major centers in London attracting budget travelers who fill up the B&Bs at such places as Sussex Gardens and Norfolk Square.

After the first railway was introduced in London in 1836, it was followed by a circle of sprawling railway termini, indluing Paddington Station in 1838. That marked the growth of this somewhat middle class and prosperous area, now going through degeneration in various locations.

Just south of Paddington is Bayswater, a sort of unofficial area also filled with a large number of B&Bs, attracting budget travelers. As London moved west, the area north of Hyde Park known as Tyburnia eventually developed into Bayswater. Inspired by St. Marylebone and elegant Mayfair, terrace houses and spacious squares became home to a relatively prosperous set of Victorians from the mercantile class.

Piccadilly:

This is the very heart and soul of London'ss West End, with Piccadilly Circus and its statue of Eros being the virtual "living room" of London. The circus isn't New York's Times Square yet, but its traffic, neon, and jostling crowds make it the fashionable place to experience. Piccadilly Circus is a great place just to hang out in and people watch.

The thoroughfare Piccadilly was always known as "the magic mile". Traditionally the western road out of town, it was named for the "picadil", a ruffled collar created by Robert Baker, a tailor in the 1600s. He built a mansion called Piccadilly Hall, and the name is still used today.

If you want a little more grandeur, retreat to the Regency promenade of exclusive shops, the Burlington Arcade, designed in 1819. The English gentry--tired of being mud-splashed by horses and carriages along Piccadilly--came here to do their shopping.

Some 35 shops, a treasure trove of goodies, await you. Or make your way to Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, the world's most luxurious grocery store, which was launched in 1788. The store sent hams to the Duke of Wellington's army, baskets of "tinned" goodies to Florence Nightingale in the Crimea, and the store packed a "picnic basket" for Stanley when he went looking for Livingstone.

St. James's:

Often called "Royal London", St. James's basks in its associations with everybody from the "merrie monarch" Charles II, to today's Elizabeth II who lives at its most fabled address, Buckingham Palace.

Beginning at Piccadilly Circus and moving southwest, it's "frightfully convenient" as the English say, enclosing such addresses as American Express on Haymarket and many of London's leading department stores.

In this London neighborhood of aristocracy and royalty, a certain pomp is still carried out--gentlemen still go to private clubs, and English tradition never dies. The district evokes memories of such figures as Oscar Wilde, George Meredith and Edward VII.

Marylebone:

An area enjoying famous association with the likes of Turner or Elizabeth Barrett, St. Marylebone lies south of Regent's Park and north of Oxford Street.

All first time visitors head here, exploring Madame Tussaud's waxworks or walking along Baker Street in the make-belief footsteps of Sherlock Holmes. Right north of the district of Regent's Park you can visit Queen Mary's Gardens or in summer see Shakespeare performed in an Open-Air Theatre.

Robert Adam laid out Portland Place, one of the most characteristic squares from 1776 to 1780, and it was at Cavendish Square that mrs. Haratio Nelson waited-often in vain-for the return of the admiral.

Marylebone Lane and High Street will retrain some of their former village atmosphere. Dickens, who wrote nearly a dozen books when he resided in St. marylebone.

Soho:

This district in a sense is a Jekyll and Hyde quarter. In the day time, it's a paradise for the searcher of spices, continental foods, fruits, fish, and sausages, and has at least two street markets offering fruits and vegetables.

But at night, it's a dazzle of strip joints, gay clubs, porno movies, and sex emporiums, all intermingled with international restaurants that offer good value. In fact, this section of crisscrossed narrow lanes and crooked streets is the site of many of the city's best foreign restaurants, and Gerrard Street has successed in becoming London's first Chinetown.

Soho starts at piccadilly Circus and spreads out, ending at Oxford Street. One side borders the theatre center on Shaftesbury Avenue. From Piccadilly Circus, walk northeast and you'll come to Soho, to the left of Shaftesbury. This London neighborhood can also be approached from the Tottenham Court Road tube station: Walk south along Charing Cross Road and Soho will be to your right.

South Kensington:

Lying southeast of Kensington Gardens and Earl's Court, South Kensington is primarily residential and is often called "museumland" because of the many museums located there.

These include the national History Museums, once part of the British Museum, containing everything from specimens of Charles Darwin's historic voyage on HMS Beagle to Dinosaurs. One of the districts chief curiosities is the extravagant Albert Memorial completed in 1872 by Sir George Gilbert Scott. For sheer excess, the Victorian monument is unequaled in the world.

The Strand and Fleet Street:

Beginning at Trafalgar Square, the Strand runs into Fleet Street and is flanked with theatres, shops, hotels, and restaurants. Ye Olde Chesire Cheese with "ye olde roast beef, Dr. Johnson's House, Twinnings English tea (which the Queen herself prefers for her cuppa) - all these evoke memories of the rich heyday of this London neighborhood.

The Strand runs parallel to the River Thames, and to walk it would be to follow in the footsteps of Charles Lamb, Mark Twain, Henry Fielding, James Boswell, William Thackeray and most deffinitly Sir Walter Raleigh.

The Savoy Theatre helped make Gilbert & Sullivan a household word. Henry James called the Strand a tremendous chapter of accidents. Fleet Street has long been London's journalist's hub, and well it should be. William Caxton printed the first book in English here. The Daily Consort, first daily newspaper printed in England, was launched at Ludgate Circus in 1702.

Westminster and Whitehall:

Dominated by the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, this has been the seat of the British government sinse the days of Edward the Confessor. Even if that power isn't what it used to be, the House of Commons and the House of Lords go about running what's left of the empire.

Traflgar Square one of the major Landmarks, remains a testament to England's victory over Napolion in 1805, and the paintings in its landmark National Gallery will restore you soul.

Originally the home of Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, Whitehall was a royal residence for some 160 years - everbody from Henry V111 to James 11 called it home. Today it's more of a street linking Trafalger Square with Parliament Square.

While in the aea you can visit Churchill's Cabinet War Rooms and walk down Downing Street to see number 10, considered the most famous street address. One of its longest tenants: Margeret Thatcher, Britains first women Prime Minister.

After leaving number 10 Downing Street, turn left and walk towards Trafalgar Square, and on the right you will see the Banqueting House. This is a must see masterpiece of architecture.

No visit is complete without a call at Westminster Abbey, one of the greatest Gothic churches in the world. It's witnessed a parade of English history beginning when William the Conqueror was crowned here on Christmas Day 1066.

The City of Westminster also emcompasses Victoria, this London neighborhood takes its unofficial name from bustling Victoria Station, known as the gateway to the Continent.

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